Win – One of Warsaw’s Most Unconventional Wine Bars and Restaurants (In the Best Possible Way)

There are very few places in Warsaw that I respect as much as Win.

An incredibly organic concept for a wine restaurant and bar – a neighbourhood spot with Michelin ambitions; a visionary cook who takes the idea of sophisticated simplicity to its absolute extreme; owners who serve guests in the dining room alongside the waitstaff; a great wine selection, including NoLo options – all of this is genuinely, seriously cool.

I’ve probably been here around six times, but on business for another project I’m involved with. This time, I finally decided to make a proper visit for a review. As it turned out, I clearly picked the wrong day, but more on that later. First, let’s talk about the good stuff.

The interior at Win is magnificent. Distinctive, aesthetic, and full of carefully considered details. There are two floors, each with a slightly different vibe.

Downstairs, there’s the wine bar combined with a shop: shelves lined with bottles, softer lighting, and a more relaxed atmosphere. Upstairs, things are a little more sophisticated and restaurant-like, with mirrors, huge panoramic windows, and tons of light wood. The menu is the same on both floors, but the mood is different – and that’s wonderful.

Mateusz Karkoszka is in charge of the food. He’s the chef who earned the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand distinction for Kieliszki na Próżnej, then pulled off the same feat a second time, this time with Win.

Mateusz is a truly unique cook. The best way to describe his philosophy is through a favourite art installation of mine near Łódź railway station: a glowing sign that reads «Trzeba dojrzeć, aby dojrzeć».

He pays enormous attention to nuances and details; he’s incredibly technically skilled and has a vision of gastronomy entirely his own. His cooking exists at this remarkable intersection of complexity and simplicity. Hell, even his seemingly ordinary French fries take two days to make.

And to appreciate all the nuances of his cooking, you need to be prepared for it in advance. A bit like going to see a theatre production that isn’t the easiest to follow, but is staged with extraordinary talent.

Win serves one of the best tartares in the city (57 PLN) – topped with horseradish snow, young capers, and an incredibly fresh, delicate dressing with notes of fish sauce. On top, there are absolutely wonderful crisps that are seriously addictive. It all seems so simple, yet the harmony is remarkable.

For those who appreciate the finer things, there are delicate slices of lightly smoked duck breast (51 PLN), cut almost like jamón, served with confit beetroot jelly, elderflower, and very young, exceptionally pale walnuts.

Oysters (21 PLN each) are always on the menu, naturally, with toppings that change with the seasons. In summer, that might mean currants and their leaves; in autumn, sea buckthorn. And for occasions like these, the wine list always includes three Champagne options by the glass, whatever the season.

Seasonality, by the way, is taken very seriously here, with dishes reflecting the time of year. Right now, for example, it’s time for pearl barley risotto (69 PLN) with pumpkin, autumn truffle, and rosemary – slightly acidic, but with a wonderful connection between the grains, and an exceptionally wine-friendly dish.

Even dessert, such as the walnut and plum tart (33 PLN), seems to reflect the weather outside perfectly: soft, enveloping, rich in flavour, and wonderfully familiar. Personally, I found the crème Chantilly a little too heavy, but that’s purely a matter of taste.

What is not a matter of taste – and not remotely acceptable – is what happened with the service. And, forgive me, but I’m going to devote quite a bit of space to it.

When paying, I noticed that a 10% service charge had been added to the bill by default. I thanked the waitress for settling our bill quickly and was just about to get ready to leave, expecting to receive my change – around 70 PLN.

After ten minutes of silent waiting, the waitress came over, but instead of bringing the change, she decided to top up our water and asked pointedly: «Were you waiting for something else? Perhaps your change?»

Can you guess what happened after I answered yes?

I was told that I had actually said «thank you» and that, apparently, in Poland, this is what people say when they want to leave a tip – so she hadn’t intended to bring me the change at all.

Fine, I know that in Polish, «Dziękuję» can be used as a refusal, roughly equivalent to «No, thank you». But what the hell, then, was stopping her from interpreting every single «Dziękuję» I said while she was refilling our water or rearranging the cutlery in the same way?

Or is «thank you» when someone tops up your water one thing, while «thank you» after the waitress quickly takes your bill folder is something entirely different? Right – about as different as «Dziękuję» and «Dziękuję, reszty nie trzeba».

The whole situation was utterly ridiculous. It could have been resolved with one simple «I’m sorry, I misunderstood what you meant», but for some reason, it was turned into a moral lecture with a side of «Well, here in Poland…» – particularly amusing to hear in a restaurant with Belarusian roots.

Before this incident, service at Win hadn’t just been exemplary – it had been a unique part of the experience, something that felt both personal and professional. Even people who aren’t always keen on the food here consistently speak highly of the atmosphere and service.

And I always find it incredibly frustrating when someone representing a restaurant makes a problem worse instead of resolving it. Misunderstandings happen. You can sort them out, learn from them, even turn them into something positive. I genuinely believe this is one of the defining qualities of a truly good waiter. When you represent the entire establishment in the eyes of a guest, you can soften any blow and handle any mistake gracefully – turning it into a win-win for everyone involved.