Where Chefs Eat: Bartosz Szymczak, Rozbrat 20 *

“Restaurants are something I almost always experience with my wife – I try to choose places where she’ll feel fully comfortable. And, to be honest, my first instinct is usually to go to one of the venues from our Ferment restaurant group. I know it may sound strange to recommend ‘your own’ places, but what can I do if the food there is truly excellent?

I think the place I visit most often is Koneser Grill – it’s my go-to spot in Warsaw. The three of us – my wife, my daughter and I – go to Piotr Wójcik, order almost all the starters, one steak, a pile of sides – and it turns into the perfect sharing table, a little feast. It’s difficult to recommend specific dishes because the menu lives and changes, but the classics are always strong: great tartare, beautiful pork and fish, plus anything that comes off the grill.

If I need a proper Italian day or the perfect tiramisu, I go to Le Braci. If I want something elegant yet still everyday in spirit, I head to Kieliszki na Próżnej. The cooking here is bright and full of flavour, the menu changes all the time, and you just know it’s going to be good.

For steaks – Butchery & Wine. I was there recently – they had made a fantastic onion soup; I’m sure it will stay on the menu for a couple of months.

For a full fine-dining experience in the city I have several absolute addresses. Epoka is probably the better choice for an evening out, and the place itself is the one closest to my own cooking philosophy in Warsaw.

Marcin Przybysz and I have been friends for years – we support each other, he comes to me often, I go to him. But the main thing is that the food at Epoka is simply outstanding. You go knowing it will be excellent.

My other great love is Nolita. Jacek Grochowina has been cooking there for years. The produce is always impeccable and the cooking incredibly strong. I often drop by both for lunch and for dinner.

And of course Witek Iwański and his Hub.Praga – intelligent, precise gastronomy where every detail is made for the guest. I also have to mention Tuna and Nuta.

Among new openings, I really liked the recently opened Rozdział – everything is incredibly precise and balanced, a small but very carefully crafted place.

Among the more relaxed but still gastronomic places I really like Wandal. And if I want something more casual? For pizza I like Nonna, Kwadratowy Pies and Mąka i Woda.

One of the recent ramen surprises was Noodlani in Targówek, and I often go to Mokuzai on Smoleńska with my daughter – both for ramen and sushi. For breakfast Baken is a great choice.

But the best sushi in Warsaw for me is Japonki – no competition.

What about other cities? In Kraków, Bottiglieria 1881 is outstanding – I was thrilled. I really like Euskadi. And I still want to visit Molam – I’ve heard only good things, but haven’t been yet. I’ve also long admired the cooking of Artur Skotarczyk at Muga in Poznań, I was impressed by the kitchen at Giewont in Zakopane and really want to finally visit Arco by Paco Pérez – I’ve heard it’s absolutely outstanding.

But honestly – it’s easier to hop on a plane and fly to another country than to drive to the opposite end of Poland.

Abroad everything is new – so many impressions. One of the recent highlights was Hiša Franko, where the former sommelier from Rozbrat 20 is currently working. I was amazed – from the very first aperitif in the garden to the last plate.

In London my main favourite is Muse, the place of my mentor Tom Aikens – the cooking there is simply superb: incredibly creative and genuinely delicious. And also Frog by Adam Handling, as well as the restaurants from the Salt Yard group.

In France, I was struck by lunch at Bruno Verjus – two stars, but without any unnecessary pomp; just outstanding food and an incredibly warm team. And of course Arpège by Alain Passard: what he does with sauces (like the cabbage one) is pure magic.

In Spain – especially in San Sebastián – it seems impossible to eat badly. But the place that impressed me the most was Amelia – I haven’t come across anything similar in Poland. During my latest trip to Italy I really enjoyed Trippa – incredibly delicious food.

Oh, I almost forgot about desserts in Warsaw. I used to drop by Odette all the time – such a pity they closed. Now my go-tos are Mazovia Patisserie or Deseo. For coffee I like Fabryczna – it’s right here, just next to Rozbrat 20.

And the best desserts in the city are made by my wife – she’s a pastry chef, and if I want the perfect szarlotka, I just go home.”

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