Niby: An Elegantly Laid-Back Neo-Bistro

Honestly, I would love to see more places like Niby in Warsaw – tiny, unique spots with a vibe that feels unlike almost anything else. It seems like everything has come together perfectly here.

The former (and cult among a certain crowd) Bar Gastronomiczny space at Solidarności 64 has been redesigned with enormous respect for the original. But at the same time, they have given it so much style that the likes of Baken Bar could almost be jealous.

Inside, there’s an elegantly scruffy atmosphere with all the comforts: careless plasterwork, a concrete floor covered in paint, great designer furniture, and a brilliant soundtrack coming through the speakers.

A disco ball lies around among all this beauty, while the first things guests encounter are a blue curtain and that almost untouched entrance to the old Bar Gastronomiczny. So it’s hardly surprising that people come here from the other side of the city, while true locals – grandmothers included – also pop in for a bite. Adorable, really!

The kitchen is run by Vadim Astori. A new-wave Belarusian chef who previously worked as chef at the French restaurant Reneé, he seems to me to fit perfectly into the contemporary Polish gastronomy scene.

Excellent knowledge of the fundamentals, a love of experimentation, a unique style combining comfort food with intriguing twists, the ability to call things by their name, and a desire not to adapt to reality but to create something new – this is exactly what people mean by a chef’s own vision, and it’s what moves the entire scene forward.

Right now, the menu – and Vadim himself – are somewhat limited by the format. Niby currently serves only an all-day brunch menu, which leaves a little less room to play. But even here, things turn out very, very well.

Probably the most striking dish right now is the creamy tortilla (42 PLN) with beef tartare and lightly smoked aioli. You get a play of textures and temperatures, a mix of mischief and comfort, and simply maximum photogenicity in everything that’s going on.

Pan Con Tomate (38 PLN) is a clever synthesis of two classic dishes: the Catalan open-faced «sandwich» and a French omelette, served on a bread with a creamy sauce, lemon zest, finely grated tomato, and absolutely gorgeous Iberico ham.

The Niby plate (34 PLN) is something of an entry ticket into the world of fashionable Warsaw gastronomy, going back to the days when the «Copenhagen plate» first appeared in the capital. Simple, high-quality, straightforward, but not boring – that’s what you can expect from this dish. Bread from Bakery, excellent whipped butter, a soft-boiled egg, and superb-quality salmon. In other words, a great foundation.

Both desserts are good, but there is one small «but» – they’re fairly heavy. Both the Basque cheesecake with figs and the absolutely mind-blowing Olive Oil Cake with lemon syrup, Chantilly cream, and salt (please try it!) are a combination of carbohydrates and fats squared. But – it’s a spectacular combination!

There are a few details that still need work, with service being the main one – hardly surprising, given that the place has only just opened.

The waitresses are trying very hard, but there are moments that fall into the category of «rough edges». Two members of staff can be chatting with one guest at the counter while somehow not finding the time to hand a menu to a newly arrived table. They don’t always warn you in advance that the filter coffee here is a fermented infusion (a wonderful thing, but clearly not for everyone), and so on.

Still, all of that is minor.

The important thing is that Warsaw has gained a really cool new place, which should become even better in about a month or a month and a half – once it gets an evening menu and a natural wine list. I’ll tell you all about it as soon as that happens!

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