Ballaro: New urban neo-bistro

Ballaro is one of the very few openings in Warsaw that I had been waiting for ever since the announcement – everything about it just sounded too intriguing.

An unconventional concept built around live fire and influences from all over the world, a highly technical and creative chef-owner Giacomo Carreca (you definitely know him from Madre), a great location just a couple of minutes from Plac Konstytucji – it felt like every single piece of the puzzle had fallen perfectly into place.

And yes (spoiler alert!) – the place turned out to be not only exceptional in terms of food, but also ridiculously distinctive. Because come on – where else are you going to see cuttlefish crudo with guanciale or horse tartare with mussels and verbena?

The whole place looks like the perfect modern neo-bistro – vibrant, striking, packed with great details, with that polished yet still approachable atmosphere. There’s no pretension here; there’s more than enough style and comfort instead.

Distressed metal instead of mirrors, rough beige walls and marble, old parquet floors and whitewashed brickwork, flickering candles, rows of wine bottles, an open kitchen where you can sit and watch the cooks at work if you feel like it – somehow they’ve managed to mix style and ease in perfectly equal proportions.

The food here is incredibly interesting: Giacomo (apparently inspired by the chaotic energy of Palermo’s Ballarò market) really went all in when it comes to combining flavors, countries and techniques.

The oyster with mint granita and loquat (26 PLN) is mind-blowing not only because of its piercing flavor, gradually shifting freshness and acidity into more noble marine notes, but also because of the play on temperatures. A genuinely addictive dish that everyone who enjoys bold combinations should order.

The chef turns Iberico pork neck into absolutely stunning skewers (59 PLN), balancing a sweet glaze with sorrel and labneh with preserved lemon, while adding a touch of refined Italian bitterness. And honestly – it’s just beautiful too.

Tortillitas (36 PLN) are airy fun and a little nod to Spain and its tortilla: puffed potato, an exploded egg, finely grated summer truffle, and garlic-parsley mayo. The whole thing feels incredibly striking. It’s light, bright in flavor, and almost weightless.

Young cabbage (39 PLN) is first cooked sous-vide, then finished on the grill and paired not only with beurre blanc, but also with buckwheat popcorn and baked yeast. The result feels practically perfect – both in terms of elegance and texture.

The risotto (69 PLN) somehow successfully blends Italy and Morocco: earthy, herbal notes from Moroccan chermoula, artichokes, fermented lemons, and an incredible balance between richness and lightness. A genuinely unique dish.

Out of the three desserts I managed to try two: rhubarb with skyr, ruby chocolate, cotton candy and verbena (35 PLN), as well as croustillant with lemon and thyme ice cream (34 PLN).

The latter felt noticeably too rich for my taste, and the small scoop of ice cream wasn’t enough to offset the overall heaviness. But that’s entirely subjective – I’m sure many people will appreciate this approach.

In the end, Ballaro turned out to be a place that feels like a very comfortable bistro at heart, but occasionally manages to surprise you like fine dining. Because one thing is guaranteed – you’ll leave with a lot of emotions from the food.