Ahaan: practically a benchmark for Thai cuisine, recognised by the Michelin Guide

When Ahaan was still at its old address, it was a cult spot. The atmosphere of a mad Thai hole-in-the-wall, seemingly copied from the memory of nighttime Khaosan Road, plastic chairs, bright PVC tablecloths, proper utensils, food that knocked you off your feet with the sheer amount of seasoning – Mokotów had a seriously cool place!

After moving to Saska Kępa a couple of years ago, the owners noticeably toned down the madness, dusting everything with concrete, industrial elements, and branded tableware. Gradually, however, almost all of the local vibes returned to their factory settings. Special thanks for the flags made from colourful tablecloths and the gorgeous courtyard – now all of this finally feels really, really good.

I remember my impressions of Ahaan at the new location perfectly well: I was there on its very first day. The dishes back then didn’t impress me much: the flavours were turned up so high that they hit you over the head like a hammer. Literally.

But now, when I decided to drop by after the Michelin Guide results were announced (and congratulations on the Bib Gourmand, by the way), I was so blown away that I’m now planning to come here at least once a week. Because the food is simply bloody brilliant!

Smashed cucumbers with a gentle heat, peanuts, chilli, and shallots (27 PLN) are the perfect start and a neat introduction to Ahaan’s approach to Thai gastronomy – excellent ingredients, vibrant flavours, and absolutely no compromises.

The caramel squid (39 PLN) was already practically a signature dish, but somehow it has become even better now. A gorgeous play of textures, a mix of sweetness from the caramel and heat from green pepper, authentic Northern Thai makhwen pepper bringing citrus notes, hints of ginger – an absolutely brilliant joke and a personal recommendation from me.

The green curry (64 PLN) is also close to benchmark quality: yes, these are powerful flavours, but they stay with you. Braised beef, asparagus as a seasonal element, an excellent balance of flavours – I honestly can’t imagine what else you could add. Well, except rice, which needs to be ordered separately here.

Op Wun Sen (68 PLN) is not only an interesting dish in its own right, but also a slightly interactive one. A metal pot arrives at the table with the ingredients arranged in layers. At the bottom – braised pork, then a generous amount of glass noodles, and excellent prawns on top. Beside it comes a bowl of bright talay sauce: you can – and should – add the dressing yourself, controlling the intensity of the flavours. Then everything is mixed with special tongs.

The flavour initially seems rather neutral, but gradually opens up and, at least in my case, becomes seriously addictive.

Cha Yen ice cream (26 PLN) is a very Thai, very trendy kind of mix. On one hand, you get the flavour of Thai green tea and condensed milk. On the other – the very current combination of ice cream with butter (basil butter, in this case) and salt (Maldon, of course).

All in all, Ahaan has become my personal discovery of the season. After the move to Saska Kępa, I only visited once, right at the beginning, and left less than impressed. But now I can say with complete confidence that the current version of Ahaan is an almost textbook example of what the Michelin Bib Gourmand is all about: a place where price, quality, and the experience you get from it all come together.

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